Prepare the following, placing each in the same large bowl as you complete it: Mince 5 garlic cloves (about 2 heaping tablespoons). Finely chop 1 medium yellow onion (about 1 1/2 cups) and 2 large celery stalks (about 3/4 cup). Dice 1 large green bell pepper (about 1 cup).

Melt 2 sticks unsalted butter over medium heat in a heavy-bottomed 5-quart or larger pot or Dutch oven. Add 1 cup all-purpose flour and whisk to combine. Cook, whisking constantly, until the roux is a deep brown (like turkey gravy), 20 to 25 minutes. Watch the roux carefully for burning, scraping the bottom and the sides of the pot often. The roux should have a nutty aroma, and the consistency will become thinner as it cooks and the flour loses its thickening power.

Add the onion mixture and stir to coat in the roux. Add 2 tablespoons gumbo filé, 2 tablespoons Cajun seasoning, and 2 teaspoons kosher salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are softened, about 8 minutes. Add 1/4 cup tomato paste and stir until the paste is darkened in color, 2 to 3 minutes.

Pour in 1 (32-ounce) carton low-sodium seafood stock or chicken stock and 1 (11 to 12-ounce) bottle or can of light beer. Squeeze the juice from 1 medium lemon into the pot. Add 1 habanero pepper if using. Stir to combine, thoroughly scraping down the sides and bottom of the pot to make sure that the roux is fully dissolved. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil.

Reduce the heat to low. Cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the flavors of the gumbo begin to meld together, 30 to 35 minutes. (The gumbo can be made up to this point, cooled, and refrigerated. Bring back to a simmer before continuing.) Meanwhile, if using fresh okra, trim the stem ends and cut crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces. Pick over 8 to 10 ounces crab meat for shells. Drain 8 ounces shucked oysters if using.

Uncover, add the okra, and stir to combine. Bring back to a simmer. Add the crab meat, oysters of 8 ounces bay scallops, and 1 pound medium peeled and deveined raw shrimp. Stir to combine.

Cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the seafood is just cooked through and the okra is tender, about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, thinly slice 1/2 medium bunch scallions and cook white rice for serving if desired.

Discard the habanero. Taste and season hot sauce 1 tablespoon at a time and more kosher salt as needed. Serve on cooked white rice garnished with the scallions, with more hot sauce on the side.

Storage: Refrigerate leftover gumbo in airtight containers for up to 5 days.